Nailed it!

Nailed it!

Our top 10 tips for notoriously nice nails:

1 – Wear gloves

Simple and obvious, but often neglected.  From washing up to going out in the frosty weather you should always protect your nails (and your hands for that matter).  Nails are porous and will expand and contract with varying temperatures and varying moisture levels.  This cycle on a continuous basis will result in cracking and weaker nails.  The extra layer provided by gloves helps to keep the nails at a constant temperature and moisture.

2- Trim regularly

Like your hair, nails need to be trimmed regularly to keep them in best condition.  It is worth trimming once every two weeks and then adjusting the time between trims depending on how your nails grow.  Remember health is better than length, shorter stronger nails are always a better asset than long brittle ones.

3- File with style

When filing our nails, a common error is going back and forth with the coarsest nail file available.  It is better to nurture than force a change.  Use a minimum of 240 grade nail file and go in one direction only, try to avoid using a sawing action and go with the grain of the nail.  It results in a better finish and aids healthy growth.  Always keep a small nail file with you to deal with any rough edges as they appear so you do not end up catching them or making them worse as the day goes on.

4-Do not cut the cuticle, step away from the cuticle

The nail cuticle plays a key role in protecting your nail bed from bacteria.  It forms a seal to allow your nail to grow out from the nail bed without the risk of something nasty getting in.  If you are dead set on playing with the cuticles, only do so after a shower and use a clean wooden orange stick.  Then ensure you massage in some cuticle cream or lotion to speed up the sealing process again.  Using a cuticle oil twice daily morning and night is another excellent way to keep the cuticles in tip top condition.

5- Keep them clean

High level hand hygiene is a great way to keep your hands and nails looking great.  Using a gentle soft nail brush to move the daily debris.  This helps to remove any residual colour or acetone, both of which can dry the nails out.

6- Rely on what you apply

Always check the labels before applying anything to your nails (or any other part of your body to be honest) to ensure there are no nasty chemicals in the formulation.  Examples are: toluene, formaldehyde and dibutyl phthalate.  Ensure you use a basecoat before applying any colour, this helps to prevent the nail from becoming stained and helps the colour applied to look for vibrant and less opaque.  Finally finish off with a top coat, this adds a nice sheen and prevents the colour form chipping, so you can make the most of your manicure.  Ideally a top coat applied every two to three days will keep your nails looking freshly finished for longer.

7- Wetter is better

The more moisture your nails have, the better condition they will be in.  This is the same for your skin and your body overall.  Hydration = healthy!  A good nail oil and hand cream or lotion should be part of your daily beauty regime.  This keeps the integrity of the nails high and mighty so even in the nude they will look awesome.

8-A little rest is best

Giving your nails a break from treatments and colours is another way to keep the end of your digits.  Think of it like a holiday, time for rest and recuperation so you can come back refreshed and ready for action.  The same goes for your nails, give them a holiday every now and then, a week of colour and then a weekend off is perfect, unless you have plans then fit a break in as you can.

9- You are what you eat

Having a balanced nutrient rich diet is going to help not just your nails, but your health overall.  For your nails, a diet containing nuts, fish and beans can give your nails a boost and keep them growing strong and healthy.

10- Super Supplements

There are times when your body needs a little more than your diet can give.  In this case, supplements such as biotin, vitamin E and more recently collagen have shown to give your nails a turbo boost.  These all help promote keratin production and can help give you the nails you have always wanted.

Hyaluronic Acid or Hyaluronan Complex?

Hyaluronic Acid or Hyaluronan Complex?

Hyaluronic acid, the miracle plumper molecule is well known in the World of Beauty, but what is it exactly?  Is it some sort of magical water magnet? Or a super special sponge?  Well, sort of.  Let me explain:

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a long chain polysaccharide, essentially a large sugar molecule, the posh name for this type of molecule is a glycosaminoglycan.  It is found in connective tissue throughout our bodies – there is however an incredible 50% found in our skin.  It is a key building block in the extracellular matrix.  This is an intricate meshwork that holds all our bodies specialist cells in place, without it we would essentially be a mass of cells with no form.  Hence this ‘scaffolding’ for our cells is essential in giving us form and structure.  Collagen is another key ingredient in this framework.  However, we can cover that in another blog post. 

As well as its structural role, hyaluronic acid is a key factor in retaining moisture.  One molecule of HA can hold up to 1000 molecules of water.  As we age, the level of HA in our bodies reduces. This is a normal process and contributes to our well-known signs of ageing, i.e. fine lines, wrinkles, dry skin and so on.

Retaining moisture in the skin plays a significant role in the health and integrity of our largest organ. The more moisture we have in our skin, the healthier it will be.

Because of the effects HA has on the skin, it has now become a common ingredient found in injectable fillers and leads to the instant plumping effect seen in many aesthetic procedures.  Although the molecule is far too large to penetrate the skin to reach the dermis (deep skin tissue layer), it has been found to have some beneficial effects when used as a topical formulation, hence the increase in creams and serums containing this ‘beauty sponge’. 

However, HA when found in fillers, topical products and now some revolutionary cosmeceuticals (ingestible beauty supplements) contains the same type of HA – by that I mean they are all the same length.  However, in our bodies and especially in our skin, HA comes in a range of different lengths and is in a constant cycle of degradation and regeneration.  Therefore, using HA’s of the same length does not replicate the natural structure of the skin.  This is where a new discovery in the HA space is already making waves.  The hyaluronan complex (HC), a simple but extremely effective concept that is changing the way the beauty industry uses HA.  The HC is essentially a mixture of HA molecules that replicate the mixture of lengths found in the skin.  The results with this formula have been nothing short of game-changing.  Overall producing 20% improvements over HA alone.  The complex is just starting to gain a following in the beauty space and will no doubt be the go-to replacement for HA in the future.

It just goes to show, when it comes to anything to do with the human body, the closer the match to the natural state that you produce, the more beneficial it will be.

Pupinder S Ghatora MPharm MRPharmS SCS

Hair Loss

Hair Loss

Pupinder S Ghatora (MPharm MRPharmS SCS) CEO Ingenious Beauty comments:

The health and appearance of our hair is one of the most important ‘feel good’ factors when it comes to our self-esteem and often our feeling of wellness.

There are many factors that can have a negative effect on our hair and scalp health:

Hormonal Imbalance

As women age, the levels of the thyroid hormones can fluctuate. These sets of chemical messengers are so important in almost all normal bodily functions and maintaining equilibrium in the body. It can be thought that as thyroid levels fluctuate, they focus their actions on more important regulatory functions in the body. In this case, rather than regulating hair growth, the body will focus on trying to regain hormonal balance and hence change the growth cycle of the hair and this can lead to thinning and loss of hair. Most thyroid conditions will need some degree of medical intervention. Stress is also a major player here.

Insulin plays a key role in regulating blood sugar levels, fat deposition, heart health and many other functions. There have been studies showing that insulin resistance and more severely, diabetes, can lead to disruption of the hair growth cycle. It is therefore so important to try and regulate your sugar intake. Of course, there are individuals who will become diabetic no matter what due to genetic factors, but the chances and risks of getting the disease and the associated secondary effects, such as alopecia areata where the immune system attacks the hair follicles and can lead to hair thinning and hair loss, can be reduced by simply regulating your sugar intake and increasing activity.

Progesterone and oestrogen are the two dominant female hormones. There is a balancing act going on with these hormones all the time. If progesterone levels fall, it can lead to hyper oestrogen often caused by excessive stress which can also lead to hair thinning and loss. As the menopause begins, oestrogen levels drop which can also lead to hair loss. It is so important for the body to maintain balance. In severe cases, medical intervention may be required and again, going back to the basics will also help. Good nutrition, exercise and complementary supplement nutrition can all play a part in helping to alleviate hair thinning and hair loss.

Testosterone is the male hormone and is present in women in very small amounts. Testosterone can, in some cases, be converted by an enzyme in the hair follicle to something called dihydrotestosterone which damages hair follicles. It is therefore clear that any imbalance in the sex hormones can result in hair thinning and loss.

With all these hormonal factors, balance is key. The human body is an ingenious work of harmony. It is important to keep lifestyles well balanced, eating the right foods, doing the right activities and having the right mental health will contribute greatly and positively to wellbeing and in turn, hair health.


One of the greatest causes of all health issues currently must be stress. Our lifestyles, work, social pressures can all have a major impact on wellbeing. Again, this is all about balance – stress is essential for growth, both mentally and physically. However, if you are under constant non-stop stress of any manner, it will upset the delicate balance of your body and have adverse effects. One of the key indicators that show when a person is under stress is from their skin and hair health. With the hair, prolonged stress can put the hair follicles in rest phase, this will lead to thinning and hair loss. In severe cases it will result in alopecia. This is reversible, but can result in a viscous circle where you become more stressed due to the hair loss and this in turn causes more hair loss. It is therefore so important to look after not only your physical wellbeing, but also your mental wellbeing. Prolonged and relentless stress will also have consequences on many of the body’s other physiological functions which require balance. This is key. Meditation has had a long history of helping to alleviate stress and improve wellbeing – even deep breathing exercises in the morning for a couple of minutes can have a significant calming effect. As ingenious as our bodies are, they require balance and so stress can be beneficial, as long as it can be balanced with relaxation.

Nutritional Deficiency

Again, our bodies need balance to function properly and to look and feel the best they can be. If the body is lacking a number of specific nutrients, it has been shown that this can have a negative effect on hair health. The following is a list of nutrients which are important to the heath of your scalp and hair:

Iron – this is the most common nutrient deficiency in the world and is a very common cause of hair loss. It is important to ensure you are getting sufficient iron from your diet – spinach, red meat and broccoli are just a few examples. In more severe cases, such as anaemia, supplementation may be required, but one needs to be careful as too much iron can cause toxicity and it is always worth having blood levels checked by a doctor if you are susceptible to anaemia.

Zinc – an essential mineral required for hundreds of enzymatic reactions in the body and regulating gene expression. Hugely important, it is thought to play an essential role in the communication pathway of hair follicle activity. As with iron, it is best to try and obtain the essential nutrients from your diet. This is not always possible, so supplementation can be taken to help boost the body’s serum zinc levels and improve hair health.

Fatty Acid –Omega 3,6 and 9, for example, are thought to be important in hair follicle production. Deficiency of the fatty acids can result in loss of hair from the scalp and eyebrows and in rare cases, there can also be lightening of the hair. Oily fish is an excellent source of these fatty acids, although supplements can be used instead. Some studies have shown that topical preparations containing linoleic acid (a type of fatty acid) have some positive effects on hair thickness and health.

Vitamin D – a real key vitamin for health generally, it is shown that vitamin D is essential in producing healthy keratin and therefore healthy hair. Most people are deficient to a degree and supplementation is almost always the best way to treat and reduce the risk of losing hair thickness.

Amino acids and proteins – Amino acids and proteins are essential for a huge number of processes in the human body. A lack of them can lead to a vast array of issues, hair loss being just one. One of the key proteins found in the human body is collagen. Beyond the age of 25, the body reduces its ability to produce collagen at the same rate, the result is, among other things, thinning hair and a reduction in hair health and radiance. Unfortunately, it is not as straightforward as eating a steak to replenish collagen stores. Collagen is broken down by the action of the stomach so any collagen taken orally is going to be broken down into amino acids, which can be absorbed, but will not increase collagen production. The key is to protect the collagen peptide and deliver it to the small intestine. This essentially ensures you are receiving a good dose of collagen peptide into your blood stream. The body senses the collagen peptide in the blood stream and this leads to cells called chondrocytes coming into action and produce more of the body’s own collagen. This has a profound effect on hair vitality as collagen essentially makes up the hair cells. The key is finding the ingenious supplement which can deliver the collagen to the small intestine.

Antioxidants – These are incredible molecules which are able to ‘mop up’ free radical oxygen species. These are oxygen molecules which are highly reactive and can cause cellular damage. In fact, oxidative damage has been shown to be connected to hair loss due to the hair follicle cells being attacked. Dietary antioxidants are abundant in brightly coloured foods, for example, fruits, vegetables, salmon and so on. Antioxidant supplements are useful, but it’s important to be very careful as some antioxidants can actually become pro-oxidants. This can lead to an increase in radical oxygen species and further damage to the hair and other body systems. There is one, however called astaxanthin, which has 6,000 times the potency of vitamin C as an antioxidant AND it can never become a pro-oxidant. Quite an incredible substance if taken as a natural supplement, . This is a crucial point as synthetic astaxanthin will have none of the beneficial properties of the natural product, as is often the case with many things.

Crash dieting – this is another example of unbalancing the human body and its systems. Crash dieting deprives the body of a vast number of nutrients. There are numerous negative effects associated with crash dieting. The one that affects the hair is telogen effluvium, which puts the hair follicle in a sleep state, undoubtedly leading to hair thinning and hair loss. The remedy here is simple – do not crash diet, instead follow a balanced plan with exercise. The weight will come off and your hair will remain amazing.

In summary, the body has an ingenious way of regulating itself and ensuring it functions to its best ability. The key is balance – if your diet, exercise routine and mental wellbeing are all aligned, then your hair will look after itself. It may need a little help from the odd nutritional supplement as there are not many people in the world with this perfect equilibrium. Our incredible bodies may sometimes need an ingenious supplement to help them through and restore some of that delicate balance.

Amazing Astaxanthin

Amazing Astaxanthin

What is Astaxanthin?

Astaxanthin, the incredible natural carotenoid found in aquatic animals. Some birds such as flamingos and quails also contain it as well as many marine animals such as: salmon, trout, shrimp and lobster. Mammals and many other animals are unable to make astaxanthin and therefore must be ingested, hence the reason brown bears love eating salmon. Astaxanthin belongs to a class of carotenoids called xanthophylls, it is closely related to lutein, beta-carotene and zeaxanthin, it is metabolised and produces similar physiological effects. It’s ability to be esterified and higher anti-oxidant ability can be attributed to its unique molecular structure and the presence of keto and hydroxyl moieties. Due to it’s highly oxidative nature, it is often found in nature conjugated with certain proteins, for example lobster exoskeleton or salmon muscle.

Astaxanthin in Nature

Natural astaxanthin, like a miracle of nature, emerges to protect animals in the peak of their struggle against harsh environmental conditions, including UV radiation and attack by reactive oxygen species (free radicals). The microalga Haematococcus pluvialis is an organism that can produce the highest amount of astaxanthin. When the alga experiences harsh conditions, astaxanthin is created and acts like a force field that protects the nuclear DNA and lipids against UV-induced oxidation.

You might think that salmon is a red fish like tuna, but surprisingly enough, it’s actually a white fish. A salmon’s flesh is white from the time that it’s born in a river until it swims downstream to the sea. However, as it swims around in the sea it eats shrimps and other crustaceans, which are rich in astaxanthin, which gradually turn its flesh red. Crustaceans obtain it by eating algae.

So why do salmon need to consume astaxanthin?

Salmon return to rivers from the sea, swimming back upstream to spawn. They swim against the flow, so they need a great deal of power. While in the sea, salmon accumulate reserves of astaxanthin to serve as a source of energy when they set out on their arduous journey. They also need astaxanthin to protect their flesh from damage from the sun’s rays that beat down on the shallow waters at the banks of the rivers that the salmon traverse.

Then, having completed their journey safely, they eventually spawn, the salmon transfer all of their red vitality, astaxanthin, to their roe. This source of energy on a salmon’s arduous journey is passed on to the roe, like a manifestation of a mother’s love for her offspring, becoming a force that protects each and every fish egg and supporting Mother Nature’s mysterious life cycle.

In salmon, astaxanthin provides in vivo protection to omega-3 fatty acids against oxidative damage during their exhaustive upstream marathon. Research suggests that without astaxanthin, salmon would lose their resilience, not survive the oxidative spike, and experience consequent physical burnout during migration.

This is the power of astaxanthin.

What is Astaxanthin’s Chemical Structure?

Both the natural and synthetic forms of astaxanthin have the chemical formula C40H52O2. However, there is significant difference in the stereoisomer configuration, geometric arrangement of atoms, in the two forms. The main stereoisomer of natural astaxanthin, found in fish and Haematococcus pluvialis, is 3S,3’S; this stereoisomer is the most studied form of astaxanthin in terms of research into its potential health promoting benefits. Synthetic astaxanthin in mainly comprised of a mixture of the 3R,3’S and 3R,3’R isomeric forms and has been shown to have only one third of the antioxidant activity of natural astaxanthin.

When was Astaxanthin discovered?

Although the alga Haematococcus pluvialis was discovered in the 18th century, its pigment, astaxanthin, wasn’t identified until two centuries later in 1944. At the time it was named ‘haematochrom’, and only recently has its potent antioxidant action been appreciated. Today astaxanthin and its antioxidant properties are being widely researched around the world throwing new light on the many ways that astaxanthin can contribute to our overall health.
Astaxanthin works at a cellular level.

Cell membranes are not only the gates to cells but also to ageing because they balance intercellular communication, facilitate cell nutrition, and protect DNA from damage. Unfortunately, membranes are also the first target of free radicals.

Natural astaxanthin, with its unique molecular structure, stretches through the bilayer membrane, providing resilient protection against oxidative stress. Astaxanthin can quench free radicals in both the inner and outer layers of the membrane, unlike most antioxidants, which work either in the inner (e.g., vitamin E and beta carotene) or the outer side of the membrane (e.g., vitamin C).

Mitochondria are tiny organelles within the cell that serve as “power plants” because they produce most of the cell’s energy. They are also active generators of free radicals, which are by products of the energy producing process. When mitochondrial membranes are damaged by excessive free radical attack, premature cellular senescence and loss of cellular vitality occur. Research has shown that natural astaxanthin promotes healthy functioning of the mitochondria because it inhibits oxidation by scavenging free radicals along the membrane structure.

Natural Astaxanthin enhances blood antioxidant capacity.

The level of antioxidant capacity in blood can be considered an indicator for assessing the strength of the body to combat degenerative ageing and premature senescence. In fact, long-term disruption of the blood antioxidant balance is associated with cardiovascular and circulatory system diseases, neurodegenerative conditions, early signs of skin deterioration, and renal failure. Clinical studies have shown that natural astaxanthin enhances blood antioxidant capacity by preventing depletion of the body’s inner antioxidant defences, such as catalase, glutathione, and superoxide dismutase.

No Pro-oxidant activity

Pro-oxidants are chemicals that induce oxidative stress, either by generating reactive oxygen species or by inhibiting antioxidant systems. The oxidative stress produced by these chemicals can seriously damage cells and tissues, for example an overdose of the analgesic paracetamol can fatally damage the liver, partly through its production of reactive oxygen species.

Many antioxidant molecules, including vitamin C, can become pro-oxidants especially when under intense free radical attack due to smoking or intense UV radiation. Several studies have shown that natural astaxanthin safely quenches free radicals without any pro-oxidant activity; therefore, astaxanthin is classified as a pure antioxidant.

Potent anti-inflammatory action

Chronic inflammation is believed to be the silent disease at the heart of most degenerative conditions and lifestyle-related diseases. Natural astaxanthin quenches inflammation by inhibiting nuclear translocation of NF-kB, a major inducer of the inflammatory cascade. Clinical studies have shown that astaxanthin lowers inflammation in the gastrointestinal and vascular systems, as well as in muscles after intense exercise. Emerging studies also show that astaxanthin can reduce inflammation in the eyes, kidneys, and brain.

Reduction of DNA Damage

Free radicals cause DNA damage and mutation, which can lead to premature cell death and cancer. Immune cells in particular are highly exposed and vulnerable to free radicals.
A recent clinical trial measured the effects of natural astaxanthin on the damage to one of the nucleotide bases (building blocks) of DNA, called guanine. This molecule is degraded by reactive oxygen species in the body to form a substance 8-oxodG in blood plasma. Ingestion of only 2mg of natural astaxanthin per day for eight weeks showed a significant decrease in the formation of 8-oxodG, indicating that natural astaxanthin can significantly reduce oxidative DNA damage in humans.

Your Skin’s Natural Beauty with Astaxanthin

When wrinkles or skin problems arise, most women reach for cosmetic products, like creams, gels, ointments, and makeup. Applying these products to the surface of the skin may temporarily conceal the problem, but their effect is superficial and doesn’t tackle the underlying causes. The skin is an extremely complex organ, consisting of multiple layers that each have unique and important functions. For a product to truly improve the skin’s health and beauty, it must provide protection and support to all layers of the skin.

Our skin is under constant attack from free radicals produced by UV rays, pollution, stress, and poor nutrition. The damage caused by free radicals is a major cause of skin ageing and problems such as wrinkles and age spots. This free radical damage affects all layers of the skin, from the visible surface to the delicate deep layers where new skin is formed.

Natural astaxanthin is a powerful antioxidant with potent anti-inflammatory effects. Its unique molecular structure allows it to reside in the cell membrane and to protect the inside and outside of cells from free radical attack. Research shows that astaxanthin taken as an oral supplement is active in each of the skin’s layers, providing protection from UV damage, shrinking wrinkles, and making age spots lighter. Natural astaxanthin can help your reveal your skin’s natural beauty from the inside out.

Performance and Muscle Function

During physical activity, we require energy to move our body. All energy we need is generated by mitochondrial cells, often referred to as the “power stations of the cell”, which provide as much as 95% of our body’s pure energy (primarily by the burning of muscle glycogen and fatty acids). Unfortunately, a portion of this energy produces highly reactive and damaging reactive oxygen species (free radicals) which is the one of major factors to deteriorate our body. Free radicals lead the cause of cell damage by peroxidation of the cell membrane components, and oxidation of DNA and proteins.

Regular exercise is widely acknowledged as a good way to stay fit and healthy, providing it continues into later life. But for many people the aches and pains that come with regular exercise are enough to thwart their best intentions. For people of all ages exercising muscles that haven’t been regularly used can take its toll. For example, after a hard day in the garden straightening up and stretching can be an agonising experience, and the next day can be sheer hell.

For the more accomplished and serious athlete, muscle and joint pain is an uncomfortable yet often accepted side effect of heavy training. Without this pain, which leads to a longer recovery time, training could be stepped up, meaning an increase in performance levels. In addition to the constant search for an aid to help reduce this type of pain and discomfort, serious athletes are continuously on the lookout for products to help with their strength and endurance levels. An increase in these levels can mean more efficient training, making the difference between winning and losing.

Natural astaxanthin has been shown to help ease sore muscles and increase both strength and endurance levels, making it an effective training tool.

Astaxanthin and Muscle Loss (Sarcopenia)

Dr Irwin Rosenberg coined the term ‘sarcopenia’ in 1988, which was instrumental in highlighting a pathological condition that has serious consequences to individuals and society.   Sarcopenia is the progressive loss of muscle mass or quality characterized by a decline in muscle strength and/or performance.

Sarcopenia has a significant clinical impact, and affects a patient’s quality of life as a result of a decline in mobility and independence.  Most people begin to lose muscle mass and function after the age of 30.  However, the resulting loss of muscle strength increases exponentially with age.  Recent estimates indicate that approximately 45% of the older population is affected by sarcopenia.

While the causes and mechanisms of sarcopenia are not completely understood, inadequate nutrition and physical inactivity are known to influence the metabolic imbalance of proteins in skeletal muscle.  Moreover, elevated levels of free radicles and chronic inflammation during ageing make it more difficult to meet adequate dietary and nutritional needs.

In addition to diet and exercise, scientific literature suggests that antioxidants may be helpful in the management of sarcopenia.  The use of antioxidants to reduce free radicle levels has been widely advocated. The powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities of natural astaxanthin to reduce free radicle levels and decrease chronic inflammation can have a direct and positive effect on protein synthesis and mitochondrial oxidation. This is especially important in addressing the multifactorial etiology of sarcopenia.

Global Burden of Cardiovascular Disease

Heart disease in its many forms is the leading cause of death in the developed world. According to a recent report by the World Health Organisation, an estimated 17.3 million people died from cardiovascular diseases (CVDs) in 2008 and by 2030 this number is predicted to rise to 23.6 million. In the UK, British Heart Foundation research shows that cardiovascular disease accounts for 28% of premature deaths in men and almost 20% of premature deaths in women. It is one of the main causes of death in people under 75.

Behavioural risk factors such as smoking, unhealthy diet, and alcohol abuse are believed to be responsible for 80% of coronary heart disease and cerebrovascular disease. Moreover, these behaviours result in increased body weight, elevated blood pressure, dyslipidaemia, insulin resistance, and hyperglycaemia. These effects are associated with the development of atherosclerosis, which is the main underlying cause of heart attack, stroke, and peripheral vascular disease.

Oxidative stress and inflammation are widely recognized as contributing factors to atherosclerotic CVDs. The use of antioxidants such vitamin E, C, and beta-carotene as preventive therapies for CVDs has yielded mixed results. This is why natural astaxanthin, which is a much stronger antioxidant that also exhibits anti-inflammatory properties, is now being investigated as a promising compound for protecting against atherosclerotic CVDs.

Studies have shown that natural astaxanthin reduces oxidative stress and inflammation, improves lipid profiles, promotes better blood flow in capillaries, and lowers blood pressure in hypertensive individuals. Importantly, no adverse effects have been reported in these studies.

Keep Your Brain Sharp with Astaxanthin

The brain, which has a volume of only 1,130 cm3 and weighs just 1.5kg on average, contains more than 100 billion neurons, which is more than 14 times the world population. It is interconnected with over 180,000 km of nerve fibres, long enough to encircle the globe four-and-a-half times.

Because the brain has very important role to control the complicated body functions it has an excellent defence system. Firstly, it is well protected by the blood brain barrier, which prevents harmful substances from reaching the brain. Secondly, the brain has a specialized immune system, which monitors the presence of any intruders or the formation of internal injuries. Nevertheless, the brain remains vulnerable to attack and damage by free radicals, especially in people over the age of 50 in whom the brain’s natural antioxidant enzymes progressively lose effectiveness. In fact, excessive and persistent conditions of oxidative stress and chronic inflammation in the brain have been linked to development and progression of neurodegenerative conditions (e.g. Alzheimer’s disease and Parkinson’s disease) and cerebrovascular diseases (e.g. ischemic stroke and vascular dementia). For these reasons, brain specialists have started to pay close attention to the preventive and therapeutic effects of micronutrients on brain health such as natural astaxanthin.

Randomized double-blind, placebo-controlled studies have shown that 3-months supplementation of natural astaxanthin extracted from Haematococcus pluvialis (12 mg/daily) improve mental quickness, multitasking, memory and faster learning in senior subjects complaining of age-related forgetfulness and loss of mental sharpness. Clinical studies also suggest that astaxanthin fight vascular dementia by reducing oxidative by-products in red blood cells and promoting collective improvements of the blood lipid profile, blood antioxidant capacity, capillary blood flow and blood pressure.

Diabetes and Astaxanthin

Diabetes mellitus is a worldwide epidemic that is critically linked to the prevalence of obesity. More than 220 million suffer from diabetes, and by the year 2030 the figures are expected to grow to 360 million. Diabetic complications may lead to heart disease (approximately 65% of death amongst the diabetic patients), blindness, kidney failure and amputations. Even though we cannot evade type I diabetes which is influenced by heredity, fortunately type II diabetes is preventable by, for example, making dietary changes, taking nutritional supplements and exercising.

Type II diabetes is a problem that causes blood glucose level to rise higher than normal, and the body cannot use insulin properly. This is called ‘’insulin resistance’’ which is induced by the increment of intracellular oxidative stress generated by TNF-α (inflammatory cytokine) or palmitate. The study indicated that natural astaxanthin ameliorates insulin resistance by restoring insulin-induced Akt phosphorylation attenuated by TNF-α or palmitate.

Furthermore, natural astaxanthin likewise supports insulin activity by promoting the membrane translocation of GLUT4 in order to reduce blood glucose, and suppressing the phosphorylation of stress kinases to inhibit the negative feedback of the insulin signal.

Healthy Vision and Astaxanthin

There are between 20 and 25 million cases of vision impairment around the world. The two most common causes for Europeans and Americans being age-related macular degeneration (AMD) and age-related cataracts.

As eyes age, decreasing levels of certain antioxidants, carotenoids, are found in them. The main carotenoids present in the macula are lutein and zeaxanthin, which are obtained from food and meso-zeaxanthin, which is made in the retina. Recently astaxanthin was also found present in the macula.

Scientists have acknowledged for many years that carotenoids play a part in protecting the eye from free radicle damage. Several of these findings were published in reputable medical journals such as the American Journal 0f Clinical Nutrition and the Journal of the American Medical Association. The macula is able to absorb and reduce the amount of blue light entering the eye, particularly before the light strikes the retina. In this way, and with the antioxidant protection of caroteniods, the macula buffers the retina against light induced damage, thought to be caused by excess free radicals. There is strong evidence to suggest that low levels of yellow macula pigment in the eye are linked to an increased risk of developing age-related macular degeneration. Women and people with light coloured irises in the eye have less yellow macular pigment than men and people with dark irises. There is also a link between smoking and lower levels of macular pigmentation. Further evidence indicates a relationship between dietary lutein and zeaxanthin and the amount of macular pigment in the retina. The amount of carotenoid in the eye can be increased by eating foods rich in lutein and zeaxanthin, such as green leafy vegetables, or by taking supplements containing these nutrients. The lens of the eye also contains lutein and zeaxanthin.

A study published in 1999 involving 77,466 female nurses reported that dietary intake of lutein and zeaxanthin was linked to a reduced risk of cataract. Researchers Krinsky and Landrum question whether long term supplementation of lutein might prevent the loss of vision that accompanies the irreversible eye disease ‘retinitis pigmentosa’ and ‘choroideremia’ both of which lead to blindness. In October 2001 the American Academy of Ophthalmology reported the results of a placebo controlled, double blind clinical trial involving 364 people. It assessed the role of the antioxidants vitamin E, vitamin C, beta-carotene and zinc. The results showed a 25% reduction in the risk of AMD advancing when supplementing with these antioxidants.

In order to be of any use to the eye, carotenoids need two special properties that only a few possess. They must be able to cross not only the blood-brain barrier but also the blood-retinal barrier to gain access into the eye. Both of these barriers are in place to protect these areas from potentially harmful substances present in the blood.

Leading research scientist Dr Mark Tso was the first researcher to establish the presence of astaxanthin within the eye, proving that it has the ability to cross not only the blood-brain barrier but also the blood-retinal barrier. Dr Tso proposed how astaxanthin could protect the macula from damage.

Since then, astaxanthin has been established as an important antioxidant for helping to defend against the damaging free radical effects associated with age-related macular degeneration and age-related cataracts. In a 2008 study carried out in Italy, twenty-seven patients with non-advanced AMD were enrolled and randomly divided into two age similar groups: 15 patients were given a daily oral supplement containing vitamin C, vitamin E, zinc, copper, lutein and zeaxanthin plus 4mg of astaxanthin for 12 months, while the other 12 patients had no dietary supplementation during the same period. Multifocal electroretinograms were taken before and after treatment to assess how well the participants’ retinal cells responded to light. Prior to supplementation all the participants had significant reduced retinal function compared to healthy controls, whereas 6 and 12 months after the treatment, the electroretinogram readings for those in the supplement group had significantly improved.

A more recent study has taken these findings one-step further, by testing the effects of a combination of astaxanthin, lutein and zeaxanthin on visual acuity and visual function in patients with AMD. The results showed that patients in the treatment group showed significantly better visual acuity scores at 24 months compared to the non-treated group. Improvements in contrast sensitivity and measures of overall visual function were also higher in the treated group at 12 and 24 months.

There is also research showing that astaxanthin helps reduce eye fatigue. With people spending more and more time in front of computers, eyestrain, irritation, dry eyes, headaches and difficulty focusing on objects at different distances is becoming an increasing problem. In the study, 84 people that frequently experienced symptoms of eye fatigue were given 9mg of astaxanthin or a dummy pill for 4 weeks. To test the effects of the astaxanthin, researchers monitored the participants’ eye accommodation (the ability of the eye to adapt its focus on objects at different distances) and asked them to complete an eye fatigue symptom questionnaire.

When the results were analysed it was found that the astaxanthin group had significantly improved accommodation ability compared to those who were just given dummy pills. What’s more the participants taking the astaxanthin also reported significantly reduced symptoms of eye fatigue. Accommodation relies on the ability of a small muscle in the eye, the ciliary body, to adjust the shape of the eye’s lens. The beneficial effects of astaxanthin on eye fatigue are thought to stem from its ability to protect the ciliary body from damage, improving its ability to regulate the lens.

In addition to these antioxidant benefits emerging research also suggests that astaxanthin can help to improve blood flow to the macula, reduce ocular inflammation and help to protect the eyes against the damaging effects of glaucoma.

The Ingenious Hyaluronan

The Ingenious Hyaluronan

What is a Hyaluronan?

Hyaluronic acid (abbreviated most commonly as HA, sometimes as HY) is a carbohydrate, more specifically a simple glycosaminoglycan (a class of negatively charged polysaccharides) that provides compression strength, lubrication and hydration within the extracellular matrix (ECM) – the tissue that provides structural support to cells. It also regulates cell adhesion and motility and mediates cell proliferation and differentiation making it not only a structural component of tissues, but also an active signalling molecule.

Hyaluronan refers to all physiological forms of HA, the most common of which is the sodium salt. Hyaluronan is a scaffold secreted by cells that surrounds them in vivo.

HA can be several thousands of sugars (carbohydrates) long. When not bound to other molecules, it binds to water giving it a stiff viscous quality like jelly. This viscous gel is one of the most heavily researched substances in medicine today with thousands of trials mostly in the fields of orthopaedics and eye surgery. Its function in the body is, amongst other things, to bind water and to lubricate movable parts of the body, such as joints and muscles. Its consistency and tissue friendliness allows it to be beneficial in skin-care products as an excellent moisturizer. Because HA is one of the most hydrophilic (water-loving) molecules in nature, one molecule can bind to 400 water molecules, with numerous benefits for the human body it can be described as “nature’s moisturizer.

What is Hyaluronic Acid’s Chemical Structure?

HA, C28H44N2O23, is chemically classified as a glycosaminoglycan and presents as a large high molecular weight molecule. The molecule is made up of a repetitive sequence of two modified simple sugars, one called glucuronic acid and the other N acetyl glucosamine. These compounds are both negatively charged and when put together, they repel, producing an exceptionally long stretched out molecule. HA molecules, which are long and large, produce a high viscosity (lubrication) effect which resists compression and allows our joints and skin to bear weight.

When was Hyaluronic Acid discovered?

HA was first used commercially in 1942 when Endre Balazs applied for a patent to use it as a substitute for egg white in bakery products. Its discovery was very unique. No other molecule had ever been discovered that has such unique properties to the human body. Balazs went on to become the leading expert on HA, and made most of discoveries concerning hyaluronic acid benefits.

Is Hyaluronic Acid Natural?

HA is a natural glycosaminoglycan (polysaccharides that are an important component of connective tissue) and can be derived from multiple resources, foods, supplements and HA powders. HA is distributed widely throughout connective, neural, and epithelial tissue. It is one of the chief components of the extracellular matrix. In short, HA supports many important areas of the body, with notable benefit to joints and skin. So, the answer is, yes, hyaluronic acid is completely natural.

Where is Hyaluronic Acid located in the body?

HA is found naturally in most every cell in the body and occurs in high concentrations in the connective, epithelial, and neural tissues. In each body location, it serves a different function. Unfortunately, HA also has a half-life (the time it takes for the molecule to get broken down and excreted from the body) of less than 3 days and possibly even as little as one day in the skin. For this reason, it is imperative that the body continually replenish itself with HA. Unfortunately, as we age, we lose the ability to replace HA at the rate required which in part explains why age related symptoms appear.


The extracellular matrix (ECM) is a gelatinous (gel-like) fluid that surrounds almost all living cells and is essential to life. It gives structure and support to the body and without it, we would just be a trillion cells without a shape or function. It is essentially the mortar between the bricks. The skin, bones, cartilage, tendons and ligaments are examples where the ECM is located in the body. The ECM is composed of material (fibrous elements) called elastin and collagen surrounded by a gelatinous substance (Hyaluronic Acid). HA’s roles in the ECM is to help the stretchy fibres in the body from overstretching and drying out by continually bathing them in this nutritious water base gelatinous fluid. It also serves as a wonderful medium through which nutrients and waste are transported to and from the cells of these structures. This fluid would not exist if it was not for the ability of the HA molecule to bind up to 1000 times its weight in water.

Hyaluronic Acid in Skin

The skin is the largest organ in the body comprising about 15% of the body weight. Roughly 50% of the HA in our body is found in the skin. HA and Collagen are vital to maintaining the skin’s layers and structure. It is the collagen that gives the skin its firmness but it is the HA that nourishes and hydrates the collagen. Imagine the collagen as the stretchy fibres that restore the skin back to shape when stretched. Collagen is like a rubber band but stretch that rubber band a million times, as we do with our skin, without any moisture and eventually that rubber band gets overstretched (saggy) and dried out and will most likely break. This is much the same way the collagen in our skin reacts leaving our skin in need of moisture. Now imagine that same rubber band stretched a million times while under water the whole time. Chances of that rubber band drying out and breaking are minimal. Consider the HA as the water that keeps the collagen moist and elastic. Collagen is continuously surrounded and nourished by the gelatinous HA substance. Young skin is smooth and highly elastic because it contains high concentrations of HA, which helps skin stay healthy. As we grow older, the body loses its ability to maintain this same concentration in the skin. With decreasing levels of HA in the skin, so goes the ability of the skin to hold water; the result, the skin becomes drier and loses its ability to maintain its hydration.

The surface layers of the skin are supported from below by columns made up mostly of collagen and elastin. This fibrous network forms a ‘molecular sponge’ known as connective tissue and comprises water, protein complexes (e.g. collagen) and HA. This jelly-like complex transports essential nutrients from the blood stream via the capillaries in your skin. HA also acts as a space filler by binding to water and thus keeping the skin wrinkle-free.

HA contributes to skin’s barrier function, slowing down transepidermal water loss (TEWL). HA is utterly hydrophilic (water loving): one molecule can bind to 400 water molecules making its anti-TEWL, hydration and plumping effects truly remarkable.

Hyaluronic Acid in Lips

The lips are a core of skeletal muscle covered by skin tissue. The dermal layer of the lips is composed primarily of connective tissue and its components HA and collagen that give the structure (shape) to the lips. The HA binds to water creating a gelatinous fluid that hydrates the surrounding tissue and keeps the collagen, responsible for keeping the skin tight, nourished and healthy. The result is healthy well hydrated and plump lips that are well protected from the environment.

Hyaluronic Acid in Eyes

HA is highly concentrated inside the eyeball. The fluid inside the eye called the vitreous humor is composed almost completely of HA which gives the fluid inside the eye a viscous gel like property. This gel acts as a shock absorber for the eye and serves to transport nutrients into the eye.

Hyaluronic Acid in Scalp Tissue and Hair Follicles

Structurally the scalp is identical to the skin tissue except it also contains about 100,000 hair follicles that give rise to hair. The hair and the hair follicle are a derivative of skin tissue. There are two distinctive skin layers, one, the epidermis (outer layer) which gives rise to the protective shield of the body and the other, the dermal layer (deep layer) which makes up the bulk of the skin and is where the hair follicle is located. This dermal layer is composed of connective tissue and the connective tissue, with its gelatinous fluid like characteristics provides support, nourishes and hydrates the deep layers of the scalp. The result is healthy lustrous hair and a moisturized scalp. Again, all of this is made possible because of the presence of HA in the scalp.

Hyaluronic Acid in Bones and Cartilage

HA is found in all bones and cartilage structures throughout the body; both structures provide a resilient rigidity to the human body. HA is especially found in various forms of cartilage but none more than the hyaline cartilage. As you’ve probably guessed, hyaline is short for hyaluronic acid. Hyaline cartilage covers the ends of the long bones where articulation (bending) occurs and provides a cushioning effect for the bones. The hyaline cartilage has been called the “gristle cartilage” because its resistance to wear and tear. Hyaline cartilage also supports the tip of the nose, connects the ribs to the sternum and forms most of the larynx and supporting cartilage of the trachea and bronchial tubes in the lungs.

Hyaluronic Acid in Synovial Fluid

Our joints (like the elbows and knees) are surrounded by a membrane called the synovial membrane which forms a capsule around the ends of the two articulating bones. This membrane secretes a liquid called the synovial fluid. Synovial fluid is a viscous fluid with the consistency of motor oil. It has many functions, but none more than providing the elastic shock absorbing properties of the joint. Its second most important function in the joint is to carry nutrients to the cartilage and to also remove waste from the joint capsule.

Hyaluronic Acid in Tendons and Ligaments

Connective tissue is found everywhere in the body. It does much more than connect body parts; it has many forms and functions. Its major functions include binding, support, protection, and insulation. One such example of connective tissue is the cordlike structures that connect muscle to bone (tendons) and bone to bone (ligaments). In all connective tissue there are three structural elements; they are: ground substance (HA), stretchy fibres (collagen and elastin), and a fundamental cell type. Whereas all other primary tissues in the body are composed mainly of living cells, connective tissues are composed largely of a non-living ground substance the hyaluronic acid, which separates and cushions the living cells of the connective tissue. The separation and cushioning allow the tissue to bear weight, withstand great tension and endure abuse that no other body tissue could. All of this is made possible because of the presence of the HA and its ability to form the gelatinous ground substance fluid.



The body’s largest organ

It’s your body’s largest organ! The skin of the average woman weighs 3 kilos, while that of the average man weighs 5 kilos.

The care we devote to our skin is often evident in its appearance. Some lavish an inordinate amount of time to nourish and improve it; however, more often than not it’s neglected by most.

Think of skin as the protective layer that shields you from external elements (weather, pollutants, etc.) and it also represents how your body experiences and communicates with its environment by interacting with various stimuli throughout the day. In its protective capacity, the outermost layer (epidermis) can be thought of as the waterproof barrier that’s resistant to staining and is easily cleaned. Here lie stem cells that constantly produce and replace new skin cells and melanocytes (pigment-producing skin cells) that protect against UV radiation, which can be especially harmful to the next layer, the dermis. The collagen and fat located at or near the dermis is what gives your skin the plumping effect; depletion of these tissues causes the formation of wrinkles and looser appearance. As we age the amount of collagen in our skin decreases, contributing to the formation of wrinkles and other changes that make us look older; also women have less collagen than men to begin with.

Within the complex environment of the skin, blood vessels, hair follicles and sweat and oil glands, an intricate system of neural, vascular, immune and chemical pathways also interdependently coexist.

With this new understanding, give your skin the care and attention that it gives you!

Enteric capsule – ‘the ingenious difference’

Enteric capsule – ‘the ingenious difference’

What makes Ingenious Beauty’s Ultimate Collagen+ so special? The key is the incredible, bespoke designed enteric capsule. Well, what does that have to with collagen? You may ask.

The pivotal point is knowing what happens to collagen when it is ingested and throughout its digestive journey. Collagen is one of the most important proteins in our bodies. It essentially forms the meshwork that all our cells and tissue are attached to and is extremely important in maintaining skin health and integrity. As we age, we are not able to maintain forming collagen at the same rate and hence we see the signs of ageing, such as wrinkles, less hydrated skin and so on.

If we ingest collagen in any form, be it a steak, tablet, capsule or liquid supplement. The digestive action of the stomach will break down the collagen protein into amino acids. These amino acids will then travel down the digestive tract to the small intestine, where they will be absorbed and enter the blood stream. Beyond the age of 25 years, our bodies find it more difficult to utilise these amino acids to produce collagen. Therefore, taking any collagen supplement that is not somehow protected from the action of the stomach will result in that tablet or liquid being broken down into amino acids that the body just cannot utilise like it used to, in order to make more collagen.

If you can protect the collagen, then there is a chance it will reach the small intestine and be properly absorbed. The small intestine is the body’s site of maximum nutrient absorption, so if you have any protein arriving here, it is much more likely to be absorbed.

Even then, this is not the complete picture. Collagen itself is a huge molecule and cannot be absorbed as is. Ingenious Beauty uses collagen peptides, these are essentially small pieces of the complete collagen molecule that are the right molecular size to be absorbed almost instantly. Now there is a solution to overcoming the action of the stomach on a collagen supplement. The ingenious way, if you will.

By enveloping our highest quality marine collagen peptide in a completely natural (vegetable cellulose), hand-filled, enteric capsule shell, we have developed a way of delivering collagen peptide to the small intestine intact and therefore providing the highest chance of absorption to take place. There is no other collagen supplement or liquid in the World that uses this patented technique.

Our capsule shell is designed to be acid resistant, so it remains intact in the stomach. As it travels down the digestive tract, the pH levels increase, and this triggers a reaction that causes the capsule to break down very quickly and release the collagen peptide payload to the small intestine. A simply ingenious solution to a complex problem.

Once the collagen peptide reaches the blood stream, the body senses these fragments and stimulates cells called chondrocytes to produce more collagen, which leads to the incredible effects seen on your skin, hair and nails.

You can clearly see; the collagen peptide must be able to bypass the stomach and reach the small intestine to give the greatest results. Otherwise, you may as well just eat a nice steak and enjoy a glass of wine.

Ten Tips towards Younger Looking Skin

Ten Tips towards Younger Looking Skin

Want to keep your skin looking younger for longer? Then here are ten things that you need to be aware of.

  1. Do not be too much of a sun worshipper.

We all know a little sun always makes us and the rest of the world feel good. It is a clinical fact that a sunnier climate enhances our wellbeing. It is also now a clinical fact that the majority of us are vitamin D deficient. We need our brightest star to help produce vitamin D to keep our bones strong and healthy.

However, becoming a complete sun worshipper can have its disadvantages too. Like most things in life, everything is OK in moderation. Baking by the poolside or on the beach will not do your skin any favours.

Too much sun can lead to:

  • loss of skin elasticity
  • thinner and more translucent looking skin
  • wrinkles
  • dry and rough skin
  • broken capillaries on the face
  • freckles
  • liver spots
  • increased risk of skin cancer

So, if you want to keep your skin and the rest of your body healthy do not spend too much time in direct sun light. Cover up your bare skin, use a good sun cream, and slap up before you step out!

  1. Try and reduce that Carb Kick!

Some of our favourite guilty pleasures will not be doing our skin or for that matter the rest of our body any favours. Foods that are rich in sugars and starches are actually pro-inflammatory; this means they make your body react in the same way it would if you had an infection or injured yourself. This inevitably has a negative impact on your skin and wellbeing, including:

  • accelerating the ageing process
  • increasing the storage of body fat
  • the risk of diabetes
  • the risk of heart disease

and with respect to your skin:

  • loss of skin radiance
  • dark circles around the eyes
  • loss of skin tone
  • increased puffiness leading to loss of facial contours
  • increased pore size
  • increase in fine lines and wrinkles

You would be quite surprised by the amount of cheeky sugars that are lurking in everyday food and drink. Some examples are:

  • Ready-made convenience foods have sugars added by the manufacturers; these could be high fructose corn syrup, sucrose and glucose – all fancy names for sugar.
  • Fizzy or mixed squash drinks.
  • Fruit juices, although they do contribute to your 5 a day, limit the amount to 150ml.
  • Honey, syrups, fruit concentrates and nectars.
  • Cheeky sprinkle on cereal or added to hot drinks.

Be kind to your body and in turn your skin, reduce the simple carbs for a healthier and happier you.

  1. Smoking

Smoking is extremely damaging to your health and your skin. Just one puff of smoke leads to over a trillion free radicals being produced in your lungs. Free radicals are chemicals that cause your cells to mutate and also trigger an inflammatory response in your body. Prolonged inflammatory response is known to cause all types of ailments, including predisposition to heart disease. This inflammatory response occurs all over the body, not just in the lungs. As a result, your skin also suffers:

  • The amount of oxygen available to your skin reduces.
  • The level of vital nutrients including vitamin C, vital for plump, moist and youthful skin are significantly reduced.
  • Tobacco causes our blood vessels to constrict temporarily causing blood pressure to rise. This reduces the amount of blood flowing to the skin. The result is grey, pallid, lifeless and unhealthy looking skin.
  • Smoking will lead to premature ageing of the skin and therefore an increase in fine lines and wrinkles.

Quite obvious really, do not smoke and your skin stays healthier. The good news is, even if you are a smoker if you quit, all of the above can be reduced or reversed. A good anti-oxidant is also very helpful in ‘mopping up’ all those dangerous free radicals.

Be good to yourself and your skin, don’t smoke!

  1. Stress

The major destructive force in all our lives! The pro-inflammatory and pro-ageing force of stress is really quite something. Stress causes hormonal changes in our bodies which have a profound effect on the cells all over, including our skin. The stress hormone is known as cortisol, when large amounts are released into our blood stream for long periods, it is extremely toxic. Excess cortisol can lead to:

  • reduction in brain cells
  • reduced immune systems effectiveness
  • decrease in muscle mass
  • shrinkage in the size of other vital organs

The effect on the skin is profound; it can lead to thinning of the skin, accelerated skin ageing and therefore an increase in fine lines and wrinkles as well as increased visibility of blood vessels under the skin.

As difficult as it may be, one must find inner peace and reach the level of Zen to look after your mind, body and soul. Oh, it is also quite beneficial to your skin!

  1. Too much alcohol

The late night tipple or full on party night may feel like a good idea at the time, but we all know we pay for it the next day, and as we age, probably the next week. There is a common misconception that having plenty of water with your favourite alcoholic drink will counteract the negative effects. It is true that this may help to alleviate the dehydration caused; however, the negative effects of alcohol last longer than the simple dehydration. Alcohol is broken down to aldehydes; these chemicals can lead to cell damage which has a negative effect on your skin. Also, the blood vessels in your skin widen resulting in a flushed appearance and over time rupturing of the capillaries in the skin of the face. Alcohol induced dehydration also causes the skin to be more prone to fine lines, wrinkles and quicker ageing.

Remember that one drink can have effects that last for days and your skin will show it. It is not all bad news though, as with all things we enjoy, moderation is key. Chin, chin!

  1. Lack of sleep

Being a morning person may be one of the hardest things to achieve! A good night’s sleep ensures you start the day with a refreshed and radiant glow. Puffy eye syndrome and dull skin can all be attributed to a lack of ‘good sleep’. There is more science behind this than meets the eye. Sleep actually reduces the negative effects of cortisol and our adrenal hormones (used in the fight or flight reflex), all of which are increased during stress. During sleep, the hormone melatonin is actually released; this has a significant positive impact on our immune system and our skin. It is during our restful state that we build up our energy reserves and repair and rejuvenate our cells. Studies have shown inadequate sleep can lead to weight gain and a craving for fatty and carb loaded foods. A vicious cycle ensues. So the key to a more youthful, radiant and healthier you, plenty of exercise and then plenty of z’s.

  1. Lack of Exercise

The science that shows the health benefits of exercise is both plentiful and enlightening. A correct exercise regime will melt away the pounds, lower blood pressure, increase the happy endorphins circulating in your body, reduce the risk of certain cancers and also make your skin more beautiful. Studies show that exercise can have the same benefits on your skin as it does on your bone and muscle, all of which contain abundant amounts of collagen. If you look at the skin of a ‘gym junkie’ compared to a ‘couch potato’, the difference is quite dramatic. The greater the fitness level, the healthier the skin. There is a greater abundance and higher quality of collagen fibres in ‘fit skin’ than in unhealthy skin. Collagen fibres are what give our skin its strength, integrity and flexibility, so the more collagen present in the skin, the healthier and more youthful it will be. As with everything, moderation is also key in exercise, as long as we do not overdo it, an active lifestyle will have a profound, positive effect on your mind, wellbeing and skin.

  1. Not eating enough protein.

Protein is essential for cell repair. Our skin cells are constantly shedding and therefore we need enough raw materials to ensure we can rebuild and maintain the integrity of our skin. A lack of protein, either meat or plant derived is first notable on the face. Our features become softer, we lose the contoured cheekbones and jaw line blur into one soft shape. Our bodies are not designed to store protein, if we do not eat enough of this food group, the body will start to look at alternative sources. These being tissue and muscle, this inevitably leads to a reduction in collagen in the skin and other tissue and can cause the skin to age far quicker than it should. For great skin, eat a healthy balanced diet, maybe consisting of the odd big steak or bowl of humus to keep our building blocks in plentiful supply.

  1. Going Fat Free

Fat on the whole gets a bad press. True, there are many fats that are not good for us, but there are also plenty that we need and can give great health benefits. The ‘super-fats’, especially omega-3 fatty acids and monounsaturated fats have amazingly powerful anti-inflammatory effects and also improve the skin’s moisture, texture, suppleness and smoothness. Our good fats are found in many delicious ingredients: salmon, sardines, extra virgin olive oil, nuts, seeds, avocados and acai berries to name a few. The fats in these foods help us absorb nutrients from our vegetables and fruits. This results in our minds being sharp, our mood upbeat and our skin glowing and wrinkle free.

  1. Not Drinking Enough H2O

Water should be our favourite drink! Without water our organs and cells will not function, if we do not drink enough, we cannot metabolize fat nor can we flush the waste products from our cells. Again, one should not overdo the intake of water, about two litres per day is perfect. A dehydrated body provokes the development of ageing and also causes the production of inflammatory chemicals. Drink enough water to keep your body in tip top shape and your skin will show it by being more radiant, soft and supple. Remember the difference between a crinkly prune and plump plum is water!

Pupinder Ghatora MPharm MRPharmS SCS and David Hyland MSc MBA CEng

Co-founders of Ingenious Beauty

February 2016

The Amazing History of Collagen

The Amazing History of Collagen

In search of lost youth

When holding a bottle of biologically active collagen peptide in our hands we hardly ever consider how many years, how much effort, research and experimentation it took to obtain it.

Few realise that the delicate preparation in the capsules is practically the very same substance we are built of, the substance we begin to lose faster and faster as we get older.

Collagen makes up 25% of the dry mass of our body and 75% of the dry mass of our connective tissue. It would probably win the contest for the most important protein in our body. It is a live frame underpinning the tissues of our various bodily organs. Moreover, it has to be intelligent, able to conform to the demands of different organs as diverse as skin, bones, ligaments, kidneys, blood vessels, heart, eyes, or liver. Its structure is even more sophisticated than a DNA particle, containing our genetic code.

Our body synthesises collagen continuously. Every year approximately 3 kg of our collagen undergoes degradation while another 3 kg is created. It is synthesised from 20 different amino acids into huge chains made up of 1,000 amino acids each. It creates gigantic triple helixes: complicated spiral conformations each made of three polypeptide chains, whose sophisticated structure resembles a Bach fugue.

There will come a time, however, when we run short of collagen. The process of its renewal can be disturbed due to disease, stress, UV rays, contact with synthetic chemical substances or other harmful factors; or when its synthesis starts to slow, which happens as we grow older. After the age of 25, we start to lose collagen from our bodies at a rate of 1.5% per year, so by the age of 45, up to 30% of our body’s collagen will have been lost.

Considering the importance of collagen in our body, it is no wonder that science has long been working on methods of obtaining this protein which would make it effectively applicable in medicine and cosmetic science.

Chase after collagen

For centuries, scientists and beauty therapists have fought to improve the appearance of the visible effects of ageing upon the human complexion; searching for ways to reduce facial lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity, enhance hair thickness and gloss, and strengthen brittle fingernails to create a more youthful look.

In Traditional Chinese Medicine, Ejiao (made from Donkey-hide Gelatine) has been used since ancient times. Many stories have been told about famous people taking Ejiao.

  • Cao Zhi (192-232), the great writer, was unnaturally thin. But he was so invigorated by taking Ejiao that he called it an elixir.
  • Yang Yuhuan was one of the four great beauties of ancient China. She lived at the time of the Tang Dynasty?618-907?and was said to have had the fairest skin of any woman. The poet Xiao Xingzao showed that every day Yang ate Ejiao soup which was made from Ejiao, rice wine, walnuts, black sesame and crystal sugar.
  • The Song Dynasty(960-1279) philosopher Zhu Xi once wrote to his mother, advising her to take Ejiao frequently in order to extend her life.
  • Li Hongzhang, a minister at the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) court, travelled to Britain in 1896. He was 74 years old at the time, and throughout the long journey he took medicines he had brought from the imperial palace, including Ejiao, and returned to China in good health.

In pursuit of collagen

In the modern era, cosmetic scientists all over the world use “collagen” – though it is usually obtained from cows (bovine) – and have been using it for many decades. However, does bovine-extracted collagen really resemble the bioactive triple helixed collagen (tropocollagen) which makes up the organs of living vertebrates?

Scientific efforts to obtain biologically active collagen peptide were pioneered in the 1960s by Paul Börnstein, who developed an extraction-based method of obtaining collagen. After many years, however, this outstanding collagen researcher admitted that what he had obtained was not in fact biologically active collagen, but only partial and incomplete fragments of its triple helix, a lacklustre result stemming from irrecoverable degradation in his extraction process.

In spite of this, later attempts at obtaining collagen were still based on an extraction methodology. Yet these processes turned out to be too aggressive to collagen, and damaged the delicate bonds of the triple helix. The result of those methods was yet more examples of collagen particle degradation.

In a figurative sense, bone glue, fried fish or gelatine are, and can be called, “collagen”, even though they are in fact a result of collagen degeneration. The difference between the above and biologically active collagen is that they are not “intact”. During the process of their production the enormous sophisticated collagen triple helix disintegrates once and for all, unable to regain its previous properties. After all, no one puts grilled salmon on their face in the hope of getting rid of wrinkles.

While degenerated “collagen” may turn out to be helpful in some cosmetic applications; it can by no means compete with “intact” biologically active collagen and its role in the human body and skin.

Born on the sea: marine collagen peptide

The beginnings of the breakthrough in collagen research go back to the 1980s. Scientists from Gdansk (Maria Sadowska, Ilona Ko?odziejska, Eugeniusz Krajewski) carried out trailblazing experiments in the field of marine peptide biochemistry. In 1985, chemists from the Gdansk Polytechnic (Mieczys?aw Skrodzki, Antoni Michniewicz, and Henryk Kujawa), extracted collagen from fish skin. Their research continued, their methods were being improved.

What the scientists discovered, and refined, was the method of hydrolysation. Hydrolysation preserves the delicate bonds of the collagen helix and thus makes it possible to obtain tropocollagen – intact collagen – identical with collagen synthesised in the organisms of vertebrates, and most crucially, the collagen peptide produced is biologically active and akin to the collagen synthesised in your body. Moreover, collagen obtained from fish is safer than collagen obtained from mammals; it also has a better chemical and physical durability.

Bioactive Collagen – such as inside us

Thanks to all these efforts by the Polish scientists, methods of collagen production were devised which managed to preserve its unique spatial conformation – the triple helix made up of amino acid chains. This is why nowadays collagen advancements, and the resulting benefits of supplementation, achieve what was previously impossible given substandard collagen peptide extraction (and which cosmetic science has been using to date).

Namely, hydrolysed collagen can replenish collagen deficits in the organs of the human body including collagen deficits in the dermis – improving and reducing wrinkle formation and appearance. The results, making us look younger and improving our internal wellbeing, are truly ingenious.

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